Oaxaca City is a feast for the senses, and there’s no better way to experience its vibrant culture than through its food and drink scene. From bustling markets overflowing with traditional street foods to upscale restaurants that elevate classic Oaxacan flavors, this city offers something to satisfy every craving.
At Mercado 20 de Noviembre, you can dive into the heart of Oaxacan cuisine, tasting local favorites like tlayudas and mole negro in a lively, authentic setting. For a more refined experience, upscale spots like Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante and Criollo showcase Oaxacan ingredients in innovative ways that highlight the region’s culinary creativity.
But the adventure doesn’t stop with food—Oaxaca is also home to a thriving bar scene where mezcal, the city’s signature spirit, takes center stage. Mezcalerías like Los Danzantes and Expendio Tradición offer mezcal tastings and expertly crafted cocktails that pair perfectly with the local fare. Whether you’re a food enthusiast or a cocktail connoisseur, this guide will take you through Oaxaca’s must-visit dining spots and mezcal bars, ensuring a deliciously memorable journey through one of Mexico’s most dynamic cities.
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ToggleAddress: Porfirio Díaz 207, Centro
Vibe: Cozy, hip, ideal for breakfast and brunch
If you’re craving a break from traditional Mexican flavors and want something lighter, Boulenc is the place to go. This artisan bakery and cafe has a loyal following for its European-style breads and pastries, all baked fresh daily. It’s the perfect spot to start your morning with a strong cup of coffee and a freshly baked croissant or sourdough bread.
Beyond the baked goods, Boulenc also serves up delicious breakfast and brunch options. Try their avocado toast topped with seasonal veggies, or the shakshuka, a Middle Eastern-inspired dish that’s a refreshing change of pace. With its hip vibe and welcoming atmosphere, Boulenc is a favorite among both locals and travelers. Expect a crowd, but it’s well worth the wait!
Address: Calle de J.P. García, Centro
Vibe: Lively, traditional, perfect for food adventurers
To experience Oaxacan cuisine at its most authentic, start at Mercado 20 de Noviembre. This bustling market is a must-visit for any food lover. Here, you’ll find everything from fresh produce to traditional street food stalls. The highlight of Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the pasillo de humo (smoke alley), where vendors grill meats right in front of you. Choose your cuts, watch them sizzle, and enjoy with fresh tortillas, salsas, and veggies.
Some must-try dishes here include tlayudas (giant, crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, and meat), mole negro (a dark, rich mole sauce often served over chicken), and empanadas de amarillo (savory turnovers with yellow mole). The market is also a great place to try traditional Oaxacan drinks like tejate, a frothy corn and cacao drink.
Address: Calle de Miguel Cabrera 210, Centro
Vibe: Bustling, authentic, full of flavors and colors
If you want a truly immersive experience, head to Mercado de Benito Juárez. This traditional market is a feast for the senses, filled with stalls selling everything from fresh produce and meat to spices and handmade crafts. One of the highlights here is the chapulines (roasted grasshoppers), which are a local delicacy. They’re crunchy, slightly spicy, and surprisingly addictive!
Another must-try in the market is quesillo, a stretchy cheese that’s often used in Oaxacan dishes. You can also find stalls selling tamales wrapped in banana leaves, memelas (thick tortillas topped with beans and cheese), and fresh atole, a warm corn-based drink.
Address: Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512, Centro
Vibe: Casual, budget-friendly, popular with locals
Tacos Roy might be a humble taqueria, but it’s a local favorite for a reason. This small spot serves up delicious, no-frills tacos at an affordable price. Their tacos al pastor (marinated pork tacos) are the highlight here, served with pineapple and a generous helping of fresh salsa. Don’t let the simplicity fool you; these tacos are packed with flavor and will keep you coming back for more.
For a truly local experience, stop by Tacos Roy for a late-night snack. The vibe here is casual and friendly, making it a great place to eat like a local and enjoy some of the best tacos in Oaxaca City.
Address: Calle de Manuel García Vigil 512, Centro
Vibe: Artsy, eclectic, mid-range
La Biznaga is a unique restaurant that combines traditional Mexican flavors with international influences. Located in a quirky courtyard filled with artwork, La Biznaga has a creative menu that takes Oaxacan cuisine in new directions. Their shrimp tostadas with mango salsa and duck tacos are fan favorites.
La Biznaga is an excellent choice for those who want a mix of familiar and adventurous flavors. Plus, they have an extensive mezcal menu, so you can pair your meal with a range of local mezcals to enhance your dining experience.
Address: Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma
Vibe: Casual, authentic, focused on traditional corn dishes
Itanoni is a restaurant dedicated to celebrating corn, one of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine. This family-run spot offers a range of traditional dishes made with heirloom corn varieties, including tetelas (triangular corn tortillas filled with beans), memelas, and atole.
This is the perfect place to taste the depth of flavor of Oaxaca’s heritage corn varieties. At Itanoni, each dish is prepared with respect for traditional cooking methods and local ingredients, emphasizing the cultural importance of corn in Mexican cuisine. You’ll get a chance to try tlayudas made from fresh masa, or quesadillas de flor de calabaza (squash blossom quesadillas), which showcase how a simple ingredient like corn can be transformed into a variety of delicious dishes. Itanoni is an affordable spot where you can enjoy authentic Oaxacan flavors without breaking the bank.
Address: Calle de Gurrion 213, Centro
Vibe: Trendy, mezcal-focused, laid-back
If you’re looking for a place that blends great food with top-notch mezcal, Expendio Tradición should be on your list. This trendy bar and restaurant serves a variety of Oaxacan dishes alongside an impressive mezcal selection. The design is sleek and modern, with large communal tables and an open layout, creating a relaxed and social atmosphere.
Start with some tacos de lechón (suckling pig tacos) or quesillo paired with mezcal flights. The staff at Expendio Tradición are knowledgeable and passionate about mezcal, making this a perfect spot for both mezcal beginners and seasoned enthusiasts. Don’t miss out on their mezcal cocktails, which are creative and perfectly crafted to highlight the smoky flavors of this beloved Oaxacan spirit.
Address: Alcalá 403-B, Centro
Vibe: Plant-based, traditional, cozy
Oaxaca might be famous for its meat dishes, but Hierba Dulce offers an excellent vegan take on traditional Oaxacan food. The restaurant’s name, which means “sweet herb,” reflects its commitment to using local, plant-based ingredients to create authentic flavors. Their menu is entirely vegan and features innovative twists on Oaxacan staples, making it a great option for vegetarian and vegan travelers.
Try the mole rojo (red mole) or tlayudas made with plant-based ingredients, as well as the cacao and almond milk drink for a refreshing twist on traditional Mexican beverages. Hierba Dulce shows that Oaxacan food can be flavorful and satisfying even without animal products.
Address: Macedonio Alcalá 307, Centro
Vibe: Rustic, farm-to-table, intimate
Levadura del Olla was awarded it’s first Michelin star this year. Levadura de Olla focuses on sustainable, farm-to-table Oaxacan cuisine. This small, rustic restaurant is a gem for those who want to taste local flavors in a cozy and intimate environment. The menu changes based on what’s fresh and in season, and the restaurant prides itself on using traditional cooking techniques and ingredients sourced from nearby farms.
Dishes here may include memelas with chapulines (toasted grasshoppers), smoked duck with mole, and fresh ceviche made with local fish. Levadura de Olla is dedicated to showcasing the rich biodiversity of Oaxaca’s food culture, making it a must-visit for eco-conscious travelers and those interested in sustainable dining.
Address: Calle de Hidalgo 820, Centro
Vibe: Elegant, seasonal, chef-driven
Origen is a top-notch restaurant that’s well-loved for its emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients. Chef Rodolfo Castellanos, a former winner of Top Chef Mexico, creates dishes that pay homage to traditional Oaxacan flavors while incorporating modern techniques. Origen’s menu changes with the seasons, offering diners a taste of the freshest local ingredients prepared in innovative ways.
Some standout dishes include the mole de caderas (a seasonal goat stew) and chicatana (ant) sauce, which may be a unique flavor experience for adventurous eaters. Origen’s refined setting and expertly crafted menu make it an excellent choice for anyone looking to explore the gourmet side of Oaxaca’s culinary scene.
Address: Calle de Mariano Abasolo 201, Centro
Vibe: Modern, intimate, a must for food enthusiasts
Criollo is an innovative restaurant led by Chef Enrique Olvera, one of Mexico’s most celebrated chefs. Known for its ever-changing tasting menu, Criollo combines seasonal ingredients with traditional Oaxacan cooking techniques to create a one-of-a-kind dining experience. The restaurant itself is located in a minimalist space with an open kitchen, allowing guests to see the chefs at work.
The tasting menu here changes frequently, but you can expect dishes that celebrate local produce in unexpected ways. Criollo is a bit of a splurge, but it’s worth it for the chance to experience a contemporary take on Oaxacan flavors.
Address: Macedonio Alcalá 403-4, Centro
Vibe: Upscale, trendy, mezcal bar and restaurant
Los Danzantes was awarded it’s first Michelin star this year. Located in the beautiful Andador Turístico area, Los Danzantes Oaxaca combines modern Mexican cuisine with a striking atmosphere. The restaurant is designed with rustic stone walls, water features, and an open-air courtyard, creating a relaxing ambiance that enhances the dining experience. Their menu features dishes like duck with mole manchamanteles and salmon tostadas with tropical fruits.
Los Danzantes also has an extensive selection of mezcal, and they even produce their own label. This spot is ideal for a special night out and provides a memorable way to enjoy the flavors of Oaxaca.
Address: Constitución 104A, Centro
Vibe: Elegant, romantic, perfect for foodies and special occasions
If you’re looking for a more refined dining experience, Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante is one of the top choices in the city. This upscale restaurant is helmed by renowned chef Alejandro Ruiz, who is celebrated for his modern take on traditional Oaxacan cuisine. Set in a beautiful colonial-style building, Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante offers a sophisticated atmosphere and a rooftop dining area with stunning views of the Santo Domingo Church.
Their menu showcases local ingredients with an innovative twist. Try their mole tasting platter, which offers a sampling of Oaxaca’s famous moles, or indulge in their smoked octopus dish. Casa Oaxaca is a fantastic place to get a sense of how traditional Oaxacan flavors can be elevated and presented in a fine-dining setting.
Address: Reforma 411, Centro
Vibe: Traditional, rooftop views, cultural experience
Tierra del Sol is a beautiful restaurant known for its traditional Oaxacan cuisine and stunning rooftop views. Run by Chef Olga Cabrera, the restaurant aims to preserve Oaxacan culinary traditions and features dishes from Cabrera’s Mixtec heritage. The rooftop terrace offers an incredible view of the city and is especially beautiful at sunset.
Must-try dishes here include mole amarillo and mole negro, both of which are made from scratch and showcase the complex flavors of Oaxacan moles. They also offer tasajo (thinly sliced beef) and chiles rellenos stuffed with unique ingredients like seasonal fruits and cheese. Tierra del Sol is ideal for anyone looking to enjoy authentic Oaxacan food in a beautiful, serene setting.
After indulging in the incredible flavors of Oaxaca’s culinary scene, it’s time to explore the city’s equally vibrant bar culture. Oaxaca isn’t just known for its food—it’s also the heart of mezcal country, and there’s no better way to end your evening than with a tasting at one of the city’s unique mezcalerías or cocktail bars. Whether you’re looking for a laid-back spot to unwind with a mezcal flight or a lively bar with creative cocktails and music, Oaxaca’s bar scene offers the perfect way to cap off a memorable night. Let’s dive into the best places to sip, savor, and experience Oaxaca’s iconic mezcal.
Address: 5 de Mayo 209, Centro
Vibe: Artsy, intimate, LGBTQ+-friendly
Sabina Sabe is one of Oaxaca’s most popular bars, thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and inventive cocktails. Located near the historic center, this artsy bar combines the best of mezcal culture with a modern twist, offering cocktails that highlight Oaxacan ingredients in creative ways. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable, ready to recommend drinks based on your preferences.
Try their signature mezcal cocktails, like the El Beso de Sabina (a smoky, citrusy mezcal drink) or the Mezcal Mule, which puts a twist on the classic Moscow Mule with a local touch. Sabina Sabe’s ambiance is stylish yet welcoming, making it perfect for both locals and travelers looking to start the night with unique drinks. Recognized two years running as one of North America’s 50 Best Bars.
Location: Calle Macedonio Alcalá #403, Centro
Vibe: Intimate, friendly, trendy
The drinks here are mezcal-focused, with a range of cocktails that incorporate herbs, spices, and smoky mezcal flavors. Try their Diablo’s Kiss or Dark Mezcal Sour, which have an intense flavor profile that matches the bar’s mysterious aesthetic. Taverna El Diablo is ideal for those who want an alternative bar experience in Oaxaca.
Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar, is a distinguished establishment that celebrates the rich diversity of local ingredients and Mexican spirits. Recognized as one of North America’s 50 Best Bars in 2024, Selva offers an eclectic tasting space where patrons can enjoy innovative cocktails that reflect Oaxaca’s culture, terroir, and heritage.
Address: Calle Porfirio Díaz 304, Centro
Vibe: Rooftop, lively, social
For a bar with a rooftop view and a lively atmosphere, Txalaparta is one of the best spots in Oaxaca City. This multi-story bar has a rooftop terrace that offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and colonial architecture, making it a favorite for sunset drinks. The vibe here is upbeat and social, with a mix of locals and tourists gathering to enjoy the cool Oaxaca evenings.
Txalaparta’s drink menu includes a variety of mezcal cocktails, classic drinks, and local beers. Their Mezcal Margarita and Paloma Oaxaqueña (a mezcal twist on the classic Paloma) are highly recommended. The rooftop often features live music or DJs, adding to the festive atmosphere. If you’re looking for a fun night out with a view, Txalaparta is definitely worth a visit.
Address: Calle Miguel Cabrera 107, Centro
Vibe: Playful, jungle-themed, cozy
One of the most unique bars in Oaxaca City, La Selva de los Gatos (The Jungle of the Cats) combines mezcal with a fun, jungle-themed atmosphere. Decorated with lush plants, animal motifs, and colorful murals, this quirky bar has a playful vibe that makes it stand out from the usual mezcalerías. La Selva de los Gatos is a bit of a hidden gem, offering a cozy environment that feels worlds away from the bustling city streets outside.
The bar offers a variety of mezcal cocktails as well as classic drinks with a twist. Try their Mezcal Mojito or Selva Sour, which incorporates mezcal with fresh tropical fruit flavors. La Selva de los Gatos is a great place to unwind, sip some mezcal, and enjoy a different side of Oaxaca’s bar scene.
Address: Reforma 506, Ruta Independencia, Centro
Vibe: Authentic, educational, intimate
For a more traditional and educational mezcal experience, head to Mezcaloteca. This intimate tasting room is dedicated to promoting the culture and heritage of mezcal, and it’s all about authenticity. Mezcaloteca offers private tastings led by experts who guide you through the complex flavors and production methods of mezcal.
This isn’t a bar to go if you’re looking for cocktails or a loud atmosphere; it’s a place to dive deep into the mezcal world and taste artisanal mezcals from small-batch producers. Make a reservation in advance, as space is limited. Mezcaloteca’s approach is perfect for those who want to learn about mezcal in a relaxed, focused environment.
Address: Calle 5 de Mayo 409, Centro
Vibe: Contemporary, relaxed, mezcal-focused
For mezcal enthusiasts, El Destilado offers an impressive mezcal selection alongside a creative tasting menu. This trendy spot combines inventive dishes with an emphasis on locally-sourced ingredients. They have a set tasting menu that includes dishes like chichilo mole (a rare type of Oaxacan mole) and pork belly with seasonal vegetables.
El Destilado also hosts mezcal tastings, making it a great spot to dive into the nuances of this smoky Oaxacan spirit. The friendly, knowledgeable staff is more than happy to guide you through the mezcal selection, providing a deeper understanding of Oaxaca’s beloved drink.
Address: Allende 107, Centro
Vibe: Artsy, rustic, traditional
Los Amantes Mezcalería is more than just a bar—it’s also a celebration of mezcal craftsmanship. Named after their mezcal brand, Los Amantes offers a cozy, rustic space filled with local art and beautiful decor that honors the mezcal-making tradition. This mezcalería is a great place to sample their signature mezcal, which is made using traditional methods and showcases unique flavors.
The bar is cozy, with wooden accents and low lighting, creating an intimate setting. Their mezcal flights allow you to taste a range of mezcals, including some rare varieties. Los Amantes Mezcalería is ideal for a quiet evening of sipping mezcal and admiring the artistry behind each pour.
Address: Macedonio Alcalá 303, Centro
Vibe: Lively, edgy, gay-friendly, music-focused
Bar Ilegal is a lively, edgy spot that’s popular for its vibrant atmosphere and gay-friendly crowd. Known for its unique decor, dim lighting, and eclectic music, Bar Ilegal combines mezcal with a party vibe. It’s the kind of place where you can enjoy a cocktail or two and then hit the dance floor.
The drinks here are simple yet strong, with plenty of mezcal cocktails on offer. Expect music ranging from Latin beats to jazz, and sometimes even live performances. If you’re looking for a lively night out and a chance to meet both locals and travelers, Bar Ilegal is the place to be.
Address: Macedonio Alcalá 104, Centro
Vibe: Casual, bohemian, popular with locals
Praga is a classic Oaxaca bar with a bohemian vibe. It’s been around for years and is beloved by locals for its no fuss approach to drinks and its cozy, laid-back atmosphere. Located on the bustling Calle Macedonio Alcalá, Praga has an old-school feel that makes it perfect for a relaxed night out. The bar serves up classic cocktails, mezcal, and beer at affordable prices, attracting a mix of locals, expats, and travelers.
Praga’s decor is simple and charming, with dim lighting, wooden tables, and vintage art on the walls. It’s a great place to grab a drink, have a conversation, and soak up the bohemian spirit of Oaxaca. The crowd is friendly, and it’s not uncommon to find artists, writers, and creatives hanging out here. If you’re looking for a low-key spot to unwind after a day of exploring, Praga is a solid choice.
Address: Calle Macedonio Alcalá 100-1, Centro
Vibe: Casual, craft beer-focused, hipster-friendly
For those who need a break from mezcal and are in the mood for a cold beer, Chela Libre is Oaxaca’s go-to spot for craft brews. This bar has a fun, lucha libre (Mexican wrestling) theme and a laid-back vibe that makes it a popular choice among locals and tourists alike. Chela Libre offers a variety of local and national craft beers, as well as a few international selections.
The staff is knowledgeable about beer and happy to help you find something that suits your taste, whether you’re in the mood for a refreshing lager or a hoppy IPA. Chela Libre’s playful decor and friendly atmosphere make it a great spot to relax with friends and enjoy a different kind of Oaxacan drinking experience.
Address: Macedonio Alcalá 706
Vibe: Chill, rooftop, local craft beer meets mezcal
For those who want a relaxed atmosphere with a rooftop view, La Mezcalerita is an excellent choice. This cozy bar specializes in both mezcal and craft beer, offering a fantastic selection of artisanal Oaxacan brews and lesser-known mezcal brands. The laid-back rooftop is a great spot to watch the sunset over the city while enjoying a mezcal tasting flight or a cold beer.
The bar’s unpretentious vibe attracts a mix of locals and travelers, making it a great place to meet new people. If you’re in the mood for variety, try one of their mezcal flights to explore different agave varieties, or go for a craft beer flight featuring local Oaxacan brews. La Mezcalerita’s welcoming atmosphere and diverse drink menu make it a favorite among those looking for a casual night out.
Mezcal is a traditional Mexican spirit made from the agave plant, similar to tequila but often smokier due to its unique production process. Oaxaca is one of the main regions where mezcal is produced, and it’s known for the diverse varieties and complex flavors created by different types of agave and artisanal methods.
Where to try mezcal: Many bars and restaurants in Oaxaca City offer mezcal tastings, but for an authentic experience, visit places like Mezcaloteca or Los Amantes, where experts guide you through mezcal’s distinct flavors and cultural significance.
Yes, Oaxaca City has a growing vegan and vegetarian scene. Restaurants like Hierba Dulce specialize in plant-based versions of traditional Oaxacan dishes. Many other eateries also offer vegetarian-friendly options, especially in dishes like tlayudas, memelas, and atole (a traditional corn-based drink).
Yes, Oaxaca City is generally safe for tourists, including at night around the popular tourist areas and main streets. However, as with any destination, it’s wise to stay aware of your surroundings, keep valuables secure, and take registered taxis or rideshares if you’re going further out after dark. Stick to well-lit, busy areas, especially when visiting bars or markets in the evening.
Basic Spanish can be helpful, as many market vendors and local eateries may not speak English. However, in popular restaurants and bars, especially those catering to tourists, you’ll likely find staff who speak some English. Learning a few basic Spanish phrases, like “gracias” (thank you) and “¿cuánto cuesta?” (how much does it cost?), can enhance your experience.
Oaxaca City is a paradise for anyone looking to explore the rich flavors and vibrant culture of Mexico. From the bustling, smoke-filled aisles of Mercado 20 de Noviembre to the refined plates at Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante and the inventive mezcal cocktails at Sabina Sabe, this city offers an unforgettable culinary journey.
Whether you’re sampling traditional street food, savoring a carefully crafted tasting menu, or diving into the world of mezcal at a local bar, Oaxaca’s dining and drinking scene is sure to captivate your senses. Every meal and drink here tells a story—of heritage, creativity, and a deep connection to the land. So, bring your appetite, your curiosity, and a sense of adventure, because Oaxaca is ready to welcome you with open arms and endless flavors.
About the Author
Tim is a seasoned gay travel writer and the creator of Out in Mexico, a dedicated resource for gay travelers exploring Mexico’s vibrant destinations. After relocating to Guadalajara, he has spent years immersing himself in Mexico’s gay culture, from the iconic beaches of Puerto Vallarta to the nightlife of Mexico City.
With firsthand experience in Mexico’s gay scene, Tim has personally visited the bars, hotels, and events featured in this guide. His insights have helped gay travelers plan unforgettable trips while ensuring they feel safe, welcomed, and informed.
When he’s not writing, you’ll find him sipping a mezcal cocktail at a bar in Colonia Americana or travel to a new exciting destination in Mexico.
📍 Follow his adventures: @i.am.out.in.mexico
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